Tag Archives: orphan barrel

Whoop and Holler American Whisky Review

Producer: Orphan Barrel/Diageo. Distiller: George Dickel. ABV: 42%. Mashbill: 84% corn, 8% rye, 8% malted barley. Price: $175.

Diageo’s Orphan Barrel series has been hit or miss for me. For every terrific Rhetoric, there’s an underwhelming Forged Oak.

But there’s nothing remotely disappointing about the 28-year-old Whoop and Holler. Orphan Barrel has been unusually transparent about the provenance of this latest release–and given my adoration of all things Dickel, I was thrilled to see that the Whoop is actually a 28-year-old Dickel. And, man, what a Dickel.

There’s a ton of citric acid on the nose, and it almost overwhelms the more delicate vanilla and maple notes. The palate is just superb. Toffee and caramel corn tango for a bit, before being joined by cocoa, vanilla, fresh-baked bread, and maple. The finish is wonderfully sustained. The citrus comes back for an encore, along with the corn, vanilla, and pepper.

A terrific whiskey and one I may be hinting at come Christmas time. Cheers, friends! – TM

Buy Orphan Barrel whisky online at Mash + Grape

An Orphan Barrel representative graciously provided a sample for review. As always, our opinions are 100% our own.

Orphan Barrel Gifted Horse Review

Producer: Orphan Barrel/Diageo. Distiller: various. ABV: 57.5%. No age statement. Blend: see below. Price: $50.

Got a taste of the latest Orphan Barrel, Gifted Horse, at a swanky L.A. launch event at the cool-as-hell bar/speakeasy No Vacancy.

The official story is that the blend was an accident, first called “Project Whoops” internally (take that as you will), and that it’ll never be repeated or released again.

Gifted Horse is a blend of American whiskies bottled at 57.5% ABV, the highest of the series so far: 38.5% 17-year-old bourbon from Bernheim, 51% 4-year-old MGP bourbon, and 10.5% 4-year-old MGP corn whiskey.

It’s also the cheapest Orphan Barrel so far at $50 MSRP, though if you’re looking for maximum age for minimum price, this isn’t a value bottle–see Josh Peters’ review (and rant) at The Whiskey Jug for the price-per-age breakdown.

Let’s talk taste. They set a high bar at the launch event by opening with a pour of Rhetoric 21–my hands-down favorite Orphan Barrel–and I think the Gifted Horse suffered by comparison. The nose is light, bright, and young, with caramel, citrus, and toasted coconut. The young corn dominates on the palate, with some cinnamon and orange candy, while the older whiskey’s oak tannins dominate the finish, which is fairly sharp and dry.

The price may make this more accessible than the rest of the Orphan Barrel line, and completists will likely snap it up, but I’d recommend skipping this one and saving up for the next Rhetoric release instead.

Cheers, friends! – BO

Buy Orphan Barrel whisky online at Mash + Grape

Orphan Barrel graciously provided a sample for review. As always, our opinions are 100% our own.

Orphan Barrel Rhetoric Review

Producer: Orphan Barrel/Diageo. Distiller: undisclosed/Bernheim. ABV: 45.1%. Age: 21 years. Mashbill: 86% corn, 8% barley, 6% rye. Price: $100-130.

Diageo’s Orphan Barrel project raised a ruckus even before it was launched in early 2014. The spirits giant was coy about the source of the five “old and rare limited edition whiskies” in the line, suggesting that they themselves didn’t know where the barrels came from, while simultaneously trying to capture some Pappy magic by hinting the juice was distilled at Stitzel-Weller.

Chuck Cowdery best expressed the response of gimlet-eyed enthusiasts:

The problem is that while these products have interesting true histories, Diageo isn’t emphasizing that. Instead, they made up a front company to sell them, coined some jokey names, and designed some retro-style packaging, all of which is silly and belittling to the ostensibly fine bourbon inside. This is an example of a scotch company treating American whiskey like flavored vodka.

Sleuthing by Cowdery and others revealed the true sources: Old Blowhard (the oldest release in the line) was from the old Bernheim distillery; Barterhouse, Forged Oak, and Rhetoric were from the current Bernheim distillery (owned by Heaven Hill); and Lost Prophet was from George T. Stagg (now Buffalo Trace).

Diageo has taken some lumps for lack of transparency, and the dust has mostly settled now, making it a bit easier to evaluate the whiskies on their merits.

When I first dove into the line in 2014, the Rhetoric 20 was my favorite. The  2015 release, Rhetoric 21, retains the title. As the ages imply, each Rhetoric release is a year older than the previous one, making the project an experiment in the precise moment at which a fine older bourbon gets too damn oaky. For my money, the 26-year-old Orphan Barrel Old Blowhard, now discontinued, was well past that point.

The Rhetoric is another story entirely. It’s a symphony of dark chocolate, Christmas spices, and damp parchment. You never want to take your nose out of the glass–then the palate is just as rewarding. On the sweeter side. Medium bodied and shining brilliantly at 45.1% ABV, though it’ll yield still more spice with a drop of water. Plenty of oak, but still well integrated. I poured this as a first dram for Big Daddy Oakstave during his last West Coast visit, and I couldn’t get him to drink anything else for days.

I’m a big fan of full disclosure, and of substance rather than hype. I’m also a big fan of this whiskey. Let’s hope Diageo gets the message that good marketing and transparency can go hand-in-hand–and with the canniness of today’s enthusiast community, they need to.

Let’s also hope Diageo keeps releasing bourbons this good. -BO

Buy Orphan Barrel whisky online at Mash + Grape