Distiller: Do Good Distillery. ABV: 119.8%. No age statement. Price: $50 (375 ml).
Do Good Distillery caught my eye a few months ago with their unusual name and wide range of smoked whiskies made in Modesto, CA. They have some interesting parallels with our friends at Seven Stills, 90 minutes to the west in San Francisco. Both were dreamt up by craft beer lovers who decided to take their home brewing efforts to the next level. Both consciously reproduce craft beer profiles or elements thereof in their whiskies. And both like to experiment.
Do Good’s line includes bourbons, malt whiskies, and a few white spirits. The Benevolent Czar (just in time for the centenary of the fall of the Romanov dynasty) is their boldest offering. It’s a cask strength behemoth that reproduces the intense flavors of a Russian Imperial Stout–a favorite of the Do Good team, and, I should say, of mine too.
The nose is dense and sweet, with cocoa, orange zest, sweet oak, and a beery/yeasty note. It recalled the Wasmund’s Single Malt (without the tennis ball note), but Do Good doesn’t go the infusion route: its flavors come entirely from the grain bill and a range of small barrels. The palate has very pronounced coffee notes, verging on Seven Stills Fluxuate. Orange-infused bitter chocolate. On the sweeter side, but not overly so. The finish is pure coffee porter.
Remarkable density of flavors, nearly dessert dram territory. How do they do it? The grain bill is proprietary, but Do Good rep Andrew Bennett pointed to the traditional Imperial Stout components: pale malt, crystal malt, chocolate malt, and roasted barley. “Some of our single malts were actually beers we used to enjoy as beers,” he wrote. “We brew our version of a Russian Imperial stout, ferment and distill with the grain on, then we barrel age it in new American Oak Barrels with a heavy char. The barrels are new and not dosed and there is no infusion of any kind. Brewed, distilled and barrel aged, that’s it.”
Do Good gets most of its grain from farms within 90 miles of Modesto–always good to see–and their experiments are only getting bolder. “Our philosophy is to have something for everyone,” Andrew said. (Shochu was also mentioned.) The Benevolent Czar isn’t cheap, but there are plenty of options in the rest of their range that hit the $50 for 750ml microdistillery sweet spot.
Hats off to Do Good for bringing good new things to the ever-more-interesting California microdistilling scene. Cheers, friends! – BO
Do Good graciously provided a sample for review. As always, our opinions are 100% our own.